Archaeological Sewing

by Heather Rose Jones

Silk

With silk, as with linen, one of the concerns is to prevent ravelling, but the need to stand up to laundering is not normally a factor. In addition to expensive garments made entirely of silk, small pieces of silk may be used to edge, face, or decorate a less expensive fabric. The sewing thread is normally silk, even when silk is used in combination with another fiber.

Silk - Seams

Overcast stitch of (selvedge & single-fold cut edge) (Fig. 64)

Medieval: Overcast stitching joins two pieces of silk one selvedge and one folded edge with a relatively coarse silk thread. Late 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.153, Fig. 124C]

Running stitch of RST + running stitch top-stitching on both sides (Fig. 65)

Medieval: The regular type of seam in the garment is a running stitch (right sides together) that has been flattened and has running stitch top-stitching on either side. The fabric is silk brocade. Early 15th c., Sweden. [Geijer et al. 1994, Fig. 58]

Running stitch of RST + running stitch top-stitching + running stitch of (all, folded RST) (Fig. 66)

Medieval: The four main seams of the body have a running stitch seam with running stitch top-stitching, which is then folded right sides together at the seam again and a second running stitch is sewn about halfway between the original seam and the top-stitching. This leaves a slight ridge on the inside. The fabric is silk brocade. Early 15th c., Sweden. [Geijer et al. 1994, Fig. 60]

Silk - Seams: with Applied Binding

?Running stitch? of RST + ?running/hem? stitch of (woven tape to main fabric at sides of seam)

Medieval: 11th c., an unlined garment of heavy silk, the seams are finished inside with a silk samite tape. The stitching appears to be a plain running stitch for the main seam, with the finishing tape either running stitch or overcast. [Fleury-Lemburg]

?Running stitch? of RST + running stitch of (single-fold on both sides tape, over seam)

Medieval: Silk chasuble (11th c.?). Seams (?running stitch?) are finished on the inside with a narrow self, straight-grain tape (with the edges folded under) which appears to be sewn down with running stitches. [Müller-Christensen 1953]

Silk - Edges

Overcast stitch of (rolled edge) (Fig. 67)

Medieval: Typically used for fine silks, e.g., veils. The edge is rolled slightly and overcast-stitched over the roll. 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.158, fig 129]

Hem stitch of (double-fold edge) (Fig. 68)

Medieval: 14th c. London. Silk typically has a double-fold hem, sewn with silk. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.156, fig 128 A, Fig. 160]

?Hem? stitch of (wide double-fold edge) + lining with double-fold hem fastened to the top of the hem in some fashion

Medieval: There is a wide hem in the main, silk fabric formed by double-folding the bottom edge of the garment, but the precise stitching is not identifiable. There is a linen lining with a narrow double-rolled hem that reaches just to the top of the main hem, to which it is sewn in some fashion. [Müller-Christensen 1953]

Silk - Used to Edge Another Fabric (see figures 39 & 40 in the wool section)

?Running stitch? of (fabric & facing RST) + hem-stitch of (single-fold of facing to fabric) + running stitch as topstitching

Medieval: A narrow straight-grain band of silk is used to face a neckline on a woolen fabric. The band has been sewn to the wool right sides together with an unknown stitch (but probably running stitch), then turned, with the edged turned under and overcast to the main fabric along the edge. After this, two rows of running stitch (in the wool color) have been added. 2nd quarter of the 14th century London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, plate 2 B, p.158, Fig. 131]

Hem stitch of (woven tape folded over edge of fabric)

Medieval: A silk tape is folded in half over the edge and then hem-stitched, possibly through both edges at once? The example is binding the edge of a leather purse. Late 14th c. London [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.158 Fig. 130, Fig. 153B]

["faced" hem, like neck facing, fabric unknown, stitching unknown]

Medieval: The hem of a silk fabric was faced for about 5cm, but the facing is lost and the nature of the stitches is unknown. [Fleury-Lemburg]

Silk - Applied Decoration

Hem stitch of (single-fold edges of applied band to main fabric) (Fig. 69)

Medieval: A strip of decorative silk has the raw edges turned under and then is sewn to the ground fabric using hem-stitch. 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p. 174, Fig. 151A]

Silk - Other Uses

Worked Holes (see figures 48 & 49 in the wool section)

Medieval: Eyelets are worked in two rounds of buttonhole stitch in silk, worked through both the main woolen fabric and a narrow silk facing strip. Late 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.164, Fig. 139]
Medieval: Worked in silk buttonhole stitch through the main woolen fabric and a silk facing. The slit is perpendicular to the edge. 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.169f, Fig. 145]

Quilting

Medieval: A silk lining has been sewn to a woolen ground fabric with rows of parallel running stitch forming a triangular pattern. There is no evidence of padding, though. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.174, Fig. 151]

Return to Table of Contents -- Continue to next section

This site belongs to Heather Rose Jones. Contact me regarding anything beyond personal, individual use of this material.