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Archaeological Sewing

by Heather Rose Jones

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Wool

Wool - Seams to join fabrics: Overcast Stitch and Variants

Overcast (typically of selvedges) (Fig. 7)

• Bronze Age: Wool rectangular cloth, selvedge and cut edge joined by apparent overcast stitches in woolen thread. [Broholm & Hald 1940 p.66]
• Medieval: Wool, overcast with butted edges. [Hedeby (northern Germany), Hägg 1984 (9)]

Overcast of (selvedge & single- or double-fold) (Fig. 8)

• Hallstadt: Not entirely clear, but appears to be single edge (selvedge?) and single or double fold edge, both overcast together (through fold). Wool. [Hundt 1987 (c)]

Overcast of (single-fold hem with hemstitch) (Fig. 9)

• Medieval: Wool, right sides together: short single turnover with hem stitch, then folded edges overcast together; [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany) (12)]
• Medieval: Wools, right sides together: long single turnover with hem stitch, then folded edges overcast together; [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (13)]

Overcast of (single-fold hem with hemstitch + running stitch top-stitching) (Fig. 10)

• Hallstadt: Wool, both edges double fold with hem stitch and running stitch as top-stitching down the fold, then the folded edges overcast together. [Hundt 1960 (b) ]

Overcast of (double-fold hem with hem stitch) (Fig. 11)

• Hallstadt: Wool, both edges have a double fold with hem stitch, then the folds have been overcast together. [Hundt 1970]
• Medieval: Wool, right sides together: double turnover with hem stitch, then folded edges overcast together. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (14)]

Overcast of (double-fold hem with hemstitch + running stitch outside fold & single-fold hem with running stitch) (Fig. 12)

• Hallstadt: (A) double fold with hem stitch and running stitch outside the fold, (B) single fold with running stitch through the fold; A&B folded edges overcast together. Wool. [Hundt 1960 (c)]

Wool - Seams to join fabrics: Felled (Overlapped) Seams

Double hemstitch of raw-edge felled (typically of cut edges) (Fig. 13)

• Bronze Age: Wool, cut edges joined by overlapping slightly then overcasting each cut edge to the other fabric. [Broholm & Hald 1940 p.71]
• Medieval: Wool, overlapped: plain overlap with hem stitch on both raw edges. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (18)]
• Medieval: Edges are overlapped (more elaborate versions may have one or both edges folded under to form a felled seam) and both margins have a hem stitch through the edge of one and the fabric of the other. The example is wool from the foot of hose. Late 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.153, fig 125 A]

Flat-felled with hemstitch (Fig. 14)

• Hallstadt: Wool, folded as for flat felled seam, with hem stitching on both edges. [Hundt 1959]
• Hallstadt: Wool, (tube) selvedge and raw edge with slight underfold, sewn at both edges with hem stitch. [Hundt 1960 (a)]
• Hallstadt: Wool, overlapped edges with slight single fold to center, sewn at each edge with a hem stitch. [Hundt 1961 (b)]
• Hallstadt: Wool, folded as for flat felled seam, but hem stitch through both edges. [Hundt 1987 (d)]
• Medieval: Wool, a "flat felled" fabric arrangement, but hem stitched at both edges. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (21)]
• Medieval: Edges are overlapped (more elaborate versions may have one or both edges folded under to form a felled seam) and both margins have an hem stitch through the edge of one and the fabric of the other. Late 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.153, fig 124 B]

Flat-felled with hem-stitch of (overlap with running stitch) (Fig. 15)

• Sub-Roman: A fragment from Steinfelder Moor shows two cut edges joined with an elaborate flat felled seam. The two edges have been overlapped first, and have a running stitch on (presumably) both edges of this overlap. Then the overlapped section is folded into a Z, with the cut edges hidden in the fold, and the folded edges are sewn to the flat fabric with a hem-stitch. [Schlabow 1976, Northern Germany Fig. 223]

Flat felled with hem-stitch of (single fold toward seam & single fold away from seam) (Fig. 16)

• Medieval: Wool: running stitch with mis-matched allowances as for a flat felled seam, but the second edge folded outward (loose) and then hem stitched at the fold. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (22)]

Wool - Seams to join fabrics: Running Stitch and Variants

Running stitch RST (Fig. 17)

• Medieval: Running Stitch Seam. Various stitch lengths, leaves raw edges, common in many examples. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, pl.155f, Fig. 126A]

Running stitch RST + raw edges overcast together (Fig. 18)

• Medieval: Wool, right sides together: running stitch seam, raw edges overcast together. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (10)]

Running stitch RST + raw edges turned under towards each other and overcast together (Fig. 19)

• Medieval: Wool, right sides together: running stitch seam, raw edges turned under together and overcast. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (11)]

Running stitch RST + raw edges paired and hem-stitched to one side (Fig. 20)

• Medieval: Wool, overlapped: either running stitch then the raw edges paired and hem stitched to one side, or similar but both stitch lines hem stitch. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (19)]

Running stitch RST + raw edges paired and topstitched to one side w/running-stitch (Fig. 21)

• Medieval: Wool, overlapped: either running stitch then the raw edges paired and running stitched to one side. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (20)]

Running stitch RST of (single-fold with no stitching) (Fig. 22 - figure shows Thorsbjerg variant w/blanket-stitched edges)

• Hallstadt: Wool, single-fold edges placed right sides together then sewn with a running stitch through all four layers. [Hundt 1961 (a)]
• Sub-Roman: Flattened Running Stitch. Two pieces of woolen fabric are joined (presumably at the selvedges) with a running stitch right at the edge that is then flattened. [Hald 1980, Arden, Denmark, Fig. 292]
• Sub-Roman: Running Stitch in Folded Edge. The lengthwise sleeve seams of the Thorsbjerg shirt has the (finished) edges folded inward, then these are placed right sides together and are sewn with a running stitch through all four layers. Presumably, this is relatively loose so that it can be flattened. The fabric is a wool twill. [Schlabow 1976, Northern Germany, Fig. 142]

Running stitch WST of (single-fold with no stitching & selvedge) (Fig. 23)

• Hallstadt: (A) single fold, (B) plain edge (selvedge?); A&B placed wrong sides together, running stitch (through fold) then flattened. [Riek 1962]

Wool - Seams to join fabrics: Miscellaneous

Backstitch RST + running stitch top-stitching (Fig. 24)

• Medieval: Hypothesized, but not clearly present in the examples. Suggested for use in bias-cut hose (used in concert with running stitch top-stitching on both sides of the seam). This latter is found in 16th c. hose examples in London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.156 Fig. 126 B&C]

Double-blanket stitch (of selvedges) (Fig. 25)

• Sub-Roman: Double-sided Blanket Stitch Join. The Damendorf skirt joins the starting and ending borders to form the skirt tube using a very coarse stitch that behaves as a blanket stitch alternating between the two edges (and thus alternating directions). [Schlabow 1976, Fig. 248 , Northern Germany, but primarily my museum notes]
• Sub-Roman: The starting and finishing borders of a piece of fabric are joined to make a tubular skirt with a double-blanket stitch (i.e., blanket stitch alternating sides). [Hald 1980, Fig. 439, Huldremose, Denmark]

Seam type unknown + topstitching with backstitch

• Medieval: Backstitching is added, perhaps largely as a decorative technique, on some hems, with one or two rows in addition to the overcast. Decorative backstitching is also found on back seams and underarm seams. [Norlund 1924]

Seam type unknown - "false" seam in solid fabric

• Medieval: Another type of decorative stitching shows that the multiple-gore construction had made a fashion of necessity when the nature of the cut caused some gores to the two-piece and others one-piece, the latter could be given a "false seam" to make all appear the same, narrow size. [Norlund 1924]

Wool - Edge finishes: No Sewing

• Medieval: Woolen fabrics may have raw edges left when there is no stress or wear put on them, and especially when they have elaborate cutting, as with dags. 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992 - p.196f]

Wool - Edge finishes: Blanket Stitch and Variants

Blanket stitch of (unfolded edge) (Fig. 26)

• Hallstadt: Wool, edge of unknown type (but presumably cut?) with variant buttonhole stitch, closely set. [Hundt 1987 (b)]
• Sub-Roman: The Thorsbjerg shirt has some raw edges of the woolen fabric finished with a blanket stitch before the seams are sewn. [Schlabow 1976, Northern Germany, Fig. 141]

Blanket stitch + overcast stitch through blanket stitch only (Fig. 27)

• Bronze Age: Wool body garment, fairly fulled cloth, edge finished with blanket stitch, with a second thread whipped through the edge-loops of the blanket stitch. [Broholm & Hald 1940 p.19]
• Bronze Age: A cut edge, presumably of a woolen fabric, is finished with a blanket stitch that further has an overcast stitch running through the loops of the blanket stitch only. [Hald 1980, Muldbjerg, Denmark, Fig. 300]

Blanket stitch + 2nd row of blanket stitch above it (non-overlapping) (Fig. 28)

• Bronze Age: Wool, neck edge, finished with two rows of blanket stitch, one on the edge, one butting up against it but not overlapping. [Broholm & Hald 1940 p.68]

Blanket stitch of (narrow rolled hem) (Fig. 29)

• Sub-Roman: One fragment from Thorsbjerg has a narrow rolled edge that has been hemmed with a blanket stitch. [Schlabow 1976, Northern Germany, Fig. 202a]

Wool - Edge finishes: Hem Stitch and Variants

Hem stitch of (single fold) (Fig. 30)

• Sub-Roman: A scarf-like woolen object with the Thorsbjerg material has one long edge on the selvedge and the other long edge turned (once?) and hem-stitched. [Schlabow 1976, Northern Germany, Fig. 198d]
• Medieval: Wool, single fold with hem stitch. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (2)]
• Medieval: A single-fold hem (i.e. with raw edge exposed) is typical for woolen fabric. 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992 , p.156, fig 17 A, 128 A, Fig. 160]

Hem stitch of (fold number uncertain)

• Medieval: The type of stitch used for basic garment construction is not mentioned. Hems are usually turned under and overcast. [Norlund 1924]

Hem stitch on double fold (Fig. 31)

• Hallstadt: Wool, uncertain but appears to be double fold with hem stitch. [Hundt 1960 (b)]
• Hallstadt: Wool, narrow double fold with hem stitch. (Numerous examples of this.) [Hundt 1987 (a)]
• Sub-Roman: The Marx-Etzel shirt has a narrow, two-fold hem with hem stitch on all free edges (neck, armholes, hem). It is possible that the side seams have been finished in this way and then sewn together, but this is not mentioned. [Schlabow 1976, Northern Germany, Fig. 146, 148]
• Sub-Roman: A rectangular garment (cloak?) from Röst has a double-folded edge with hem stitch all around (all four sides). [Schlabow 1976, Northern German, Fig. 209]
• Medieval: Wool, double fold with hem stitch. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (3)]
• Medieval: 14th c. London. Rarely, double-fold hems are found in wool, particularly when it may be a trailing hem. [Crowfoot et al. 1992 , p.156, fig 17 A, 128 A, Fig. 160]

Hem stitch on double fold + stem stitch on fold before folding (Fig. 32)

• Hallstadt: Wool, double fold with hem stitch, but before this, four rows of white and blue decorative stem stitch have been done on what will be the folded edge. [Hundt 1970]

Hem stitch of (double fold) + running stitch top-stitching (Fig. 33)

• Medieval: Wool, double fold with hem stitch, plus running stitch through fold. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (4)]
• Medieval: Double-fold hem with hem stitch, but with a running stitch as top-stitch next to the folded edge. [Crowfoot et al. 1992 , p.156, Fig. 127 C]

Hem stitch of (uncertain number of folds) + backstitch top-stitching (can be multiple rows)

• Medieval: Backstitching is added, perhaps largely as a decorative technique, on some hems, with one or two rows in addition to the overcast. Decorative backstitching is also found on back seams and underarm seams. [Norlund 1924]

Wool - Edge finishes: Running Stitch and Variants

Running stitch of (unfolded cut edge) (Fig. 34)

• Medieval: Wool, running stitch along edge (no fold, purpose unclear). [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (6)]

Running stitch of (single fold) (Fig. 35)

• Medieval: Woolen fabric may have a single-fold hem with a running stitch. Wool sewn with linen thread, early 13th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.156, Fig. 127B]

Running stitch of (double-fold edge & folded main fabric) (Fig. 36)

• Sub-Roman: The waist finish of the Thorsbjerg pants involves folding the fabric down from the top, right sides together (i.e., wrong side showing) then folding both the cut edge back slightly and folding the lower fabric back to leave a folded edge matching the folded edge of the cut part. These two folds are sewn together with a running stitch and then flattened slightly. [Schlabow 1976, Northern Germany, Fig. 169]

Wool - Edge finishes: Miscellaneous

Overcast stitch of (rolled hem) (Fig. 37)

• Medieval: Wool: rolled hem with overcast stitch. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (1)]

Herringbone stitch of (single fold) (Fig. 38)

• Medieval: Wool, single fold with herringbone stitch. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (5)]

Unknown folded hem + applied cord on edge (application method unspecified)

• Medieval: Twisted or plaited cords are used to edge and decorate necks, wrists, pocket slits, and the occasional hem. (There is no mention of whether this was in addition to turning and overcasting or, in some fashion, instead of it.) The button-fronted coat has the collar and front opening edged with a thinner, lighter fabric than the main fabric. (Given the narrow size of the decorative cords, I wonder if they may have been done in decorative colors originally, but no mention is made of this.) [Norlund 1924]

Wool - Edges with applied facings

Unknown (running?) stitch RST of (fabric and facing) + hemstitch of (single-fold of facing to wrong side of fabric) (Fig. 39)

• Medieval: A narrow straight-grain band of silk is used to face a neckline on a woolen fabric. The band has been sewn to the wool right sides together with an unknown stitch (but probably running stitch), then turned, with the edged turned under and overcast to the main fabric along the edge. After this, two rows of running stitch (in the wool color) have been added. 2nd quarter of the 14th century London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992 , plate 2 B, p.158, Fig. 131]

Hem stitch of (tape facing folded over cut edge) (Fig. 40)

• Medieval: A silk tape is folded in half over the edge and then hem-stitched, possibly through both edges at once? The example is binding the edge of a leather purse. Late 14th c. London [Crowfoot et al. 1992 , p.158 Fig. 130, Fig. 153B]

Wool - Other Stitch Purposes

Cord-ties as fastening method (Fig. 41)

• Sub-Roman: The side seams of the Thorsbjerg shirt are finished by turning the edge under once, then taking a single stitch from the wrong side through and back, the ends of which are plied together. Pairs of these ties on the front and back pieces are then tied to fasten the shirt. There is no indication of any other finish or stitch on these edges. This is also found on the lower leg opening of the Thorsbjerg pants. [Schlabow 1976 Northern Germany, Fig. 141]

Seam finish (decorative) - fishbone stitch over running stitch WST seam (Fig. 42)

• Medieval: A cushion cover has a seam finish using fishbone stitch over the actual seam (which appears possibly to be a wrong-sides-together running stitch?). Although this has a similar appearance to herringbone stitch, the sewing technique is different. This may be primarily decorative. [Hald 1980, Mammen, Denmark, Fig. 296]

Tucks in non-edge fabric (Fig. 43, 44)

Fig. 43 Fig. 44

• Medieval: Wool: tucks folded and sewn with a running stitch. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (7)]
• Medieval: Wool, folded RST (but nothing to keep the fold in place?) and a cord overcast onto the fold. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (8)]

Joining middles of fabrics (purpose unclear, but not quilting) (Fig. 45-47)

Fig. 45 Fig. 46 Fig. 47

• Medieval: Wool: A folded middle, B single folded edge with hem stitch, both folds overcast together. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (15)]
• Medieval: Wool: A folded middle, B flat middle, edge A overcast to B. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (16)]
• Medieval: Wool: both flat middles, overcast together. [Hägg 1984, Hedeby (northern Germany), (17)]

Quilting

• Medieval: A silk lining has been sewn to a woolen ground fabric with rows of parallel running stitch forming a triangular pattern. There is no evidence of padding, though. [Crowfoot et al. 1992 , p.174, Fig. 151]

Worked holes (Fig. 48, 49)

Fig. 48 Fig. 49

• Medieval: Eyelets are worked in two rounds of buttonhole stitch in silk, worked through both the main woolen fabric and a narrow silk facing strip. Late 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992 , p.164, Fig. 139]
• Medieval: Buttonholes: worked in silk buttonhole stitch through the main woolen fabric and a silk facing. The slit is perpendicular to the edge. 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992 , p.169f, Fig. 145]

Pleating

• Medieval: Slight evidence for gathering or pleating using two or three parallel rows of running stitches. 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992 , p.173f] (Similarly, Norlund.)

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